Half Century Collection
Lot 75:
Description
Keywords: Iridescent Abalone Shell, Enamel Detailing in Blue and Green, Diamond Accents, Nature-Inspired Motif, Handcrafted Cloisonné Technique
Museum quality Marcus & Company signed art nouveau brooch. 18k gold, enamel with diamonds.
History: An almost identical brooch can be seen in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Part of their description reads: The vivid colors of this brooch reflect the preference for brightly hued stones and enamel found in both Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau jewels.
It was made by the New York firm of Marcus & Co., which was one of America’s most important producers of fine Art Nouveau jewelry. Herman Marcus, a jeweler from Germany, founded the company with his son William in 1892. Prior to moving to New York City in 1850, Herman Marcus had worked for Ellemeyer, a prestigious court jeweler in Dresden. It was in Europe that he discovered enameling techniques which were not common in the US at that time.
When he settled in the US it was his knowledge and savoir-faire which won him the job as director for design at Tiffany and Co.. Marcus won a prizes for his original employer Tiffany & Co at the international exhibitions, in the 19th century. Ultimately he left Tiffany and opened his own business. His work (and of his sons) is considered on a par with Tiffany – if perhaps more rare, but highly sought after by knowledgeable collectors.
Marcus & Co. is known for their delicate plique-à-jour enamel pieces in the Art Nouveau style and the diamond jewelry they produced in the 1920s and 30s. They also introduced gems rarely used in jewelry at that time, such as zircons, chrysoberyls, spinels and peridots. This piece is very similar to one in the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum.
Weight: 17.5 Grams
Measurement: 43mm x 38mm
ID: 90
Condition: Overall good. Wear commensurate with age.
We do our best to note any obvious issues, but all items are sold as is and may show signs of wear. Condition reports are provided as a helpful guide and reflect our opinion, not a guarantee. We encourage you to review photos carefully and reach out if you need more information. All lots are sold in their current condition at the time of sale.
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